Letizia Mowinckel, a key figure behind some of Jacqueline Kennedy’s most iconic fashion statements, has passed away at the remarkable age of 105. She died on February 14 at a retirement home in Rome run by nuns, as reported by The Times and The New York Times.
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Born Maria Letizia Crostarosa in Rome on September 21, 1920, Mowinckel’s life was a tapestry woven with a passion for fashion and diplomacy. She married John W. Mowinckel, an Italian-born journalist and American diplomat, after meeting him while studying law at the University of Rome in 1947. The couple was known for hosting lavish gatherings, including a memorable party in Rome in 1954 where Letizia first encountered Jackie Kennedy.
The relationship between Letizia and Jackie began to transform during a chance meeting in 1961 at the America’s Cup, a sailing competition held in Rhode Island. It was there that Jackie, recently embraced by the role of First Lady, admired a pair of trousers that Letizia had procured in Paris. Letizia offered to arrange for similar garments to be specially tailored for Jackie, marking the start of an intricate collaboration in the world of fashion.
In the wake of public scrutiny regarding her choice of designers, Jackie sought Letizia’s discreet expertise. The circumstances surrounding her fashion advisory role necessitated a certain degree of subterfuge; Letizia adopted a fabricated narrative claiming to be shopping for a royal cousin, thereby ensuring that Jacqueline could obtain high-end French designs without attracting criticism.
One of Letizia’s most significant contributions was the procurement of the pink Chanel suit that Jackie wore on the tragic day of President John F. Kennedy’s assassination on November 22, 1963. Letizia selected this particular suit from Chanel’s 1961 collection, a decision grounded in her belief that the colour suited Jackie’s complexion beautifully. The suit would go on to become an iconic part of American history, forever associated with that fateful day.
The pink suit, described as a double-breasted wool design, retained its notoriety not only for its fashion significance but also its tragic legacy. Following JFK’s assassination, Jackie was photographed wearing the blood-stained garment during the somber moments when Lyndon B. Johnson was sworn in as president. It was not until the day after the assassination that she finally changed clothes, sending the suit to the National Archives by July 1964, where it remains displayed to this day.
Letizia’s final garment for Jackie was a black Chanel suit intended for mourning, acquired in 1964. Despite the passing of time and changes in their personal circumstances, including Jackie’s marriage to Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis in 1968, the two women maintained a friendship for several years. Letizia’s involvement with Jackie was singular; she never took on a similar role for others, being solely dedicated to curating exceptional pieces for the former First Lady.
Reflecting on their relationship, Letizia described Jackie as having a well-defined personal style that she admired. “At her request, I helped select specific unique pieces that I thought might dazzle and inspire,” Letizia recounted, illustrating the trust and rapport that existed between the two women. Jackie held Letizia in high regard, calling her “an angel and a genius,” attributes which underscored the grace and creativity that characterised their collaboration.
Even in her later years, Letizia’s love for fashion remained vibrant. According to her son, John C. Mowinckel, care staff would dress her each day, ensuring she maintained her impeccable style. On the day of her passing, she had her hair styled by the retirement home’s hairdresser, embodying her lifelong commitment to elegance. Her son fondly recalled that upon her arrival at the home, she was known as “the best-dressed woman there.”
Letizia Mowinckel is survived by her son, two grandchildren, and three great-grandchildren. Her late husband, John, passed away in 2003. As news of her passing spreads, the legacy of her exquisite taste and her connection to one of America’s most cherished First Ladies endures, echoing through the annals of fashion history.