Princess Diana, the beloved figure from the British royal family, is as well-known for her fashion choices as she is for her charitable endeavours and humanitarian work. Throughout her time as a royal, Diana had an affinity for headpieces, wearing only two official tiaras during her years in the public eye. These iconic pieces—each with their own unique history—were the Spencer Tiara and the Lover’s Knot Tiara.
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The first tiara that Diana wore publicly was the Spencer Tiara, which she selected for her wedding to then-Prince Charles on 29 July 1981. Unlike many royal brides who often chose from the extensive royal collection, Diana opted for this family heirloom from her own lineage. The tiara, with roots dating back to 1767, was initially commissioned for Viscountess Montagu. Over the years, it was gifted to Diana’s grandmother, Lady Cynthia Hamilton, in 1919, before returning to prominence as a staple of Diana’s royal wardrobe.
The Spencer Tiara underwent a transformation in the late 1930s when it was remodelled by the jeweller Garrard, incorporating additional family jewels. Characterised by its heart-shaped motifs and floral scrollwork, Diana frequently wore this lighter, more comfortable tiara at various royal events. Following her tragic death in 1997, the tiara was worn publicly again nearly two decades later by Celia McCorquodale, one of Diana’s nieces, during her own wedding in 2018.
In addition to the Spencer Tiara, Diana was often spotted adorned with the Lover’s Knot Tiara—a gift from Queen Elizabeth as a wedding present. Although she did not wear it for her wedding, this diamond-and-pearl headpiece became one of her most favoured accessories. Commissioned by Queen Mary from Garrard in 1913, the tiara is a replica inspired by a piece passed down from Princess Augusta of Hesse. Featuring nineteen arches of diamonds and pearls, along with a stunning “lover’s knot” bow motif, it is a piece steeped in royal legacy.
Diana showcased the Lover’s Knot Tiara at numerous prestigious events, including the State Opening of Parliament in 1981, and a visit to Hong Kong in 1989 where she elegantly paired it with a striking dress by Catherine Walker. After her passing, the tiara remained silent in royal circles until 2015, when it was worn by Kate Middleton during a Diplomatic Reception at Buckingham Palace.
While Diana’s choices predominantly revolved around these two iconic tiaras, her imaginative flair often extended to how she styled her accessories. Known for her bold fashion moments, she frequently adapted necklaces into stunning headpieces. One memorable instance was during a gala event in Melbourne in 1985 when she wore an emerald-and-diamond choker as a headband. This innovative styling choice did not go unnoticed and cemented her reputation as a fashion-forward royal.
The emerald choker, initially gifted to Queen Mary in 1911, was reimagined into an Art Deco-style piece by Garrard in 1921. When the choker was loaned to Diana, her hairstylist, Richard Dalton, suggested the choker be used differently due to Diana’s tan lines, turning a potential faux pas into a fashion statement.
In addition to the emerald piece, Diana also embraced a sapphire-and-diamond choker that she wore as a headpiece during a dinner hosted at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo in 1986. This piece was gifted to her by the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia as a wedding present and originally consisted of a suite of sapphires and diamonds. It highlights yet another instance of her creativity as she had pieces redesigned, skilfully integrating them into her elegant ensembles.
Through her carefully curated choices of jewellery, particularly her selective use of tiaras and the innovative styling of necklaces, Princess Diana crafted a remarkable identity as a fashion icon. Each piece she wore told a story, reflecting her lineage, the royal tradition, and her ever-evolving personal style. Her memorable looks continue to inspire admiration and influence royal fashion today, and they remain an indelible part of her legacy as the “People’s Princess.”