**Tyler Andrews Sets New Everest Speed Record After Years of Preparation**
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American ultrarunner Tyler C. Andrews recently etched his name in the history of mountaineering by setting a new speed record on Mount Everest. Achieving a summit time of 9 hours, 55 minutes and 43 seconds, Andrews completed his ascent from Base Camp on May 28, 2023. This remarkable feat came just days after he was forced to turn back due to adverse weather and logistical complications, merely 400 meters from the top.

The ascent has been the culmination of nearly six years of vigorous training and multiple attempts spanning three climbing seasons. Andrews, who is not only a professional runner but also a high-altitude speed climber, expressed the intense mental and physical challenge he faced on this quest. In a statement, he highlighted the myriad conditions that must converge for such an achievement, saying, “Everything has to align,” referring to the need for favourable weather and managing the crowds.
On the evening of May 27, Andrews departed Base Camp at 7:11 p.m., making the ascent via the Southeast Ridge route. His time on the mountain eclipsed the previous record of 10 hours, 56 minutes and 46 seconds held by Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa since 2003. In addition to the summit speed record, Andrews established a new round-trip record, returning to Base Camp in 16 hours and 32 minutes, nearly two hours faster than the earlier benchmark.
Both Andrews and Gelu Sherpa utilised supplemental oxygen during their record-setting climbs. The challenge of the ascent covers approximately 18 miles with an elevation gain and descent exceeding 12,467 feet. Traditionally, such a journey would require expedition climbers around five to seven days to complete.
Those close to Andrews were not entirely surprised by his success. Dawa Steven Sherpa, a friend and expedition organiser, remarked on Andrews’ dedication to mountain climbing over the years, noting that after his first attempt, Andrews was eager to make another try. He added, “He’s the only person I’ve ever seen bring an exercise bike to Everest Base Camp,” underscoring Andrews’ commitment to fitness and preparation.
The veracity of Andrews’ achievement was confirmed by Billi Bierling, managing director of the Himalayan Database, following a debrief in Kathmandu. The successful ascent is not just a personal triumph for Andrews but also a significant milestone in the world of mountaineering.
Beyond his accomplishments on the mountain, Andrews has established a prolific career as a professional athlete, setting over 100 world records in various environments, including roads and trails. He is also a published author, cancer survivor, and advocate, using his platform to inspire others.
Despite reaching an incredible milestone, Andrews is already setting his sights on new goals. He expressed interest in aiming for the Everest record without the use of supplemental oxygen, although he acknowledged the need for a break from Everest for the timebeing. “I’ve still got a lot of racing and other records I’d like to chase,” he stated.
Off the slopes, Andrews is devoted to uplifting young athletes through the Chaski Foundation, which supports emerging talent in Ecuador and Nepal. His recent campaign on Everest has already raised over £40,000 to further this mission, highlighting his commitment to giving back to the community.
Overall, Andrews’ remarkable ascent not only redefines what is possible on the world’s highest mountain but also exemplifies the dedication, resilience, and spirit of adventure that characterise the sport of ultrarunning. As he shifts focus to future challenges, the mountaineering community and fans eagerly anticipate what he will accomplish next.
