**Alex Honnold Reflects on Being Cast as the Villain in Docuseries about Dean Potter**
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Renowned rock climber Alex Honnold recently opened up about his portrayal in HBO’s docuseries, “The Dark Wizard,” which chronicles the life and career of fellow climber Dean Potter. During a discussion on his podcast, Climbing Gold, Honnold acknowledged that this marked a unique experience for him as he was cast in an unexpected role as the antagonist in the series.

Potter, often referred to as “The Dark Wizard,” was widely recognised for his remarkable feats in rock climbing, BASE jumping, and wingsuit flying. He first gained prominence in the late 1990s and later featured in the 2000 documentary “Masters of Stone V.” Tragically, Potter lost his life in a wingsuit accident at Taft Point in Yosemite National Park in May 2015.
Honnold, who is perhaps best known for his free solo ascent of El Capitan, remarked that he participated in approximately twelve hours of interviews for the docuseries. He expressed disappointment regarding the editing choices made by the filmmakers, stating that much of the footage was focused on the more extreme aspects of his relationship with Potter, which could give the impression of a somewhat adversarial dynamic.
“It’s slightly annoying,” Honnold admitted. “I mean, Dean was my childhood hero. At one point, you realise that you can accomplish the things your idol is doing, and it feels great to do so. But the portrayal definitely leans towards me trying to outdo Dean on various projects.”
Honnold provided context by sharing his experiences from his successful 2012 season in Yosemite, during which he and Hans Florine broke the speed record on “The Nose” ascent of El Capitan. Furthermore, he accomplished the first free solo of the Yosemite Triple Crown, a project that Potter had also expressed an interest in undertaking.
Recalling his interactions with Potter, Honnold shared a lighter anecdote from the Telluride Film Festival. “I ran into him there, and I was slightly apprehensive that he might confront me. However, he turned out to be incredibly friendly, which was a pleasant surprise,” Honnold said, acknowledging the complexity of their relationship.
Despite his mixed feelings about the docuseries, Honnold remains supportive of its production. “I’m glad they made it, regardless of any opinions about my villainous portrayal. Dean was someone I looked up to, and he truly inspired an entire generation of climbers,” he stated.
The third episode of “The Dark Wizard” delves deeper into Honnold’s and Potter’s relationship, specifically highlighting Honnold’s historic free solo of Half Dome. “I knew Dean wanted to free solo Half Dome, and it certainly looked achievable for him, but he never attempted it. I felt confident that I could do it,” Honnold explained.
This discussion sparked commentary from fellow climber and writer Cedar Wright, who noted that Potter appeared upset when Honnold succeeded in what he perceived as Potter’s project. Archival footage showed Potter expressing mixed emotions about Honnold’s ascent, acknowledging his simultaneous admiration and disappointment. “Part of me thought, ‘Damn, I wanted that too,’ while another part accepted that this is just how it goes,” Potter said.
Writer Dan Duane provided additional insights into the psychological aspects of their rivalry, suggesting that comparisons between such extraordinary individuals can be particularly challenging. “Few of us can truly grasp the emotional stakes for Dean, who anchored much of his identity on a handful of significant achievements,” Duane observed, noting that as one ages, the stakes feel ever higher.
However, it’s noteworthy that even in the face of rivalry, Potter expressed his admiration for Honnold. In a post shared on Instagram in 2014, he referred to Honnold as “one of my all-time climbing inspirations” and praised his down-to-earth nature.
In a poignant reflection published posthumously in Time magazine, Honnold expressed his reverence for Potter. He remarked, “As a young climber, I saw Dean’s accomplishments as both impossible and astonishing. Even though we didn’t climb together frequently, I always appreciated his presence within the climbing community. His untimely death was a profound loss.”
“The Dark Wizard” offers an intimate look at the complexities of climbing relationships and the legacies left behind by titans of the sport. All episodes of the docuseries can now be streamed on HBO Max, capturing the essence of a remarkable era in climbing history.
