The excitement is building for the 98th Academy Awards, scheduled to take place on March 15, 2026, at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles. As Hollywood prepares to celebrate yet another year of cinematic excellence, the red carpet is set to be a dazzling showcase of glamour and style, adhering to an unspoken yet widely recognised formal dress code. With a rich history of fashion at the Oscars, a look back at past styles reveals how expectations have shifted over the years.
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In the spirit of nostalgia, it’s worth recalling the significant influence of legendary costume designer Edith Head, who played a pivotal role in shaping Oscar fashion during her tenure. Known for her remarkable accomplishment of winning eight Oscars for Best Costume Design, Head’s guidance extended beyond simply advising on attire; she was integral in ensuring that the stars looked their best on camera. During the 1950s, as the show gained traction, the Academy recognised the need for a formal dress code.
In 1968, in a bid to maintain the dignity of the event, Head established one of the first official guidelines regarding celebrity attire. This was not the first instance of dress regulation; in fact, during World War II formal attire had been banned to reflect the nation’s somber circumstances. Women were even prompted to minimise cleavage exposure during the first televised ceremony in 1953, evidencing an ever-evolving approach to fashion aligned with societal standards.
In an archived memo now available on the Oscars website, Head specified that actresses should favour “formal evening gowns” that reached the floor, dismissing any dress of midi-length as inappropriate. She argued that long dresses offered a more graceful appearance on stage. The memo also urged women to opt for pastel shades to complement the academy’s gold and white setting that year. Meanwhile, male attendees were directed to wear white tie attire coupled with standard formal accessories.
This stringent dress code did not deter stars from exercising their personal style. Cher made a memorable appearance in a bold, skin-baring pink gown, contrasting her husband Sonny Bono’s more traditional black tuxedo. Audrey Hepburn captured attention in a striking white gown with a mint-coloured embellished bodice, while Elke Sommer made waves in a low-cut jewel-toned pink dress complemented by a chic fur coat. Other stars, including Ellen McCarthy and Dustin Hoffman, adhered to Head’s guidance, with McCarthy donning a powder blue ensemble teamed with elegant white gloves.
Notably, a few celebrities chose to either align with or diverge from the prescribed dress code. Julie Andrews and Faye Dunaway notably opted for all-black attire, breaking the expected norms; Dunaway’s dramatic black coat resonated with her status as an Oscar nominee that year for her role in “Bonnie and Clyde.”
Following Head’s departure from the Academy, the mantle of fashion-coordinator was taken up by Fred Hayman in 1989, under whom the red carpet saw a transformation in style and glamour. His vision paved the way for future coordinators, such as L’Wren Scott, who took on the role albeit for a single year.
In modern times, while the Oscars have yet to impose a formal dress code resembling those of Head’s era, there have been instances where guidelines were suggested. In 2021, amidst the postponed awards season due to the COVID-19 pandemic, nominees received a message highlighting a preferred “fusion of Inspirational and Aspirational” attire. The communication encouraged a return to formal wear while cautioning against overly casual selections.
As the 2026 Oscars approach, anticipation surrounding both the nominees and their fashion choices continues to build. The red carpet remains an iconic aspect of the Academy Awards, symbolising not only a celebration of film but also a stage for fashion statements that reflect not only personal style but the cultural zeitgeist.
As fashion continues to evolve, so too will the interpretation of elegance at Hollywood’s biggest night. With a historical backdrop and a rich tapestry of past dresses, the Academy Awards promise to deliver yet another thrilling celebration of creativity, both on screen and along the red carpet. It is clear that the interplay of glamour, history, and individual expression will once again set the stage for a night to remember.