**Petition for Stinky Tofu Resumed at San Gabriel Restaurant Amidst Local Complaints**
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David Liao, the owner of Golden Leaf restaurant in San Gabriel, Los Angeles, is advocating for the inclusion of the delicacy known as stinky tofu on his menu once more. This unique Taiwanese dish has been at the centre of a local debacle, largely due to complaints from nearby residents regarding its pungent odour, which has prompted a series of official warnings and fines for the establishment.
Located in a vibrant area of San Gabriel, Golden Leaf has been serving stinky tofu for three years as a beloved staple of Taiwanese cuisine. Liao, speaking with the *Los Angeles Times*, recounted that the initial grievance came in late 2017 from a resident living in a building situated to the north of the restaurant. While the complainant noted the unpleasant smell, Liao stated that neither he nor his customers found it objectionable.
Stinky tofu, or chou doufu, is a notable street food renowned for its eye-watering scent resulting from the fermentation process in brine alongside vegetables. Despite its divisive aroma, the dish has a loyal following, making up approximately 20% of Golden Leaf’s revenue, according to Liao. This culinary offering is more than just a menu item for many of Liao’s patrons; it serves as a connection to their Taiwanese heritage.
After receiving multiple complaints, Liao described experiences with health and fire department officials, who ultimately urged him to either mitigate the smell or discontinue serving stinky tofu. The culmination of these complaints led to a formal notice citing a breach of municipal codes governing airborne contaminants and odour nuisances. The notice included a warning that the restaurant could face fines up to £1,000.
Golden Leaf subsequently removed stinky tofu from its offerings, a decision marked by a newsletter that announced its potential return in 2025. However, complaints resumed when the dish was briefly reinstated, causing frustrations for both Liao and his customers. Liao revealed that the volume of calls from the disgruntled neighbour even disrupted his ability to take orders from other guests.
Given the dish’s significance within the Taiwanese community, Liao articulated that preserving this unofficial national dish is vital. “For our customers, this isn’t just another menu item; it’s an essential link to their roots,” he said in his interview.
In the face of continued complaints and additional warnings regarding odours emanating from the restaurant, Liao incurred over £1,000 in fines before he ceased selling stinky tofu altogether in November 2025. Undeterred, he has initiated a Change.org petition aimed at rallying support across California to advocate for the right to serve stinky tofu in San Gabriel.
Despite Liao’s efforts to explain the cultural significance of the dish, San Gabriel City Councilmember John Wu has expressed a need for a more robust odour control solution at the restaurant. Wu clarified that while there are numerous establishments serving stinky tofu in the area, Golden Leaf had been the only one to receive such complaints.
The council member indicated that addressing residents’ concerns was a responsibility of the city. “This isn’t about cultural preferences, but rather a matter of regulating food-related smells,” Wu remarked. He has advised Liao to invest in a better filtration system if he wishes to continue serving stinky tofu.
However, Liao has expressed concern regarding the financial feasibility of implementing such solutions. A ventless fryer could cost around £50,000, while a new filter might run up to £100,000. “We are willing to cooperate with the city, but they haven’t provided any guarantees in writing,” Liao added, highlighting the financial burden such investments would entail.
As the debate over stinky tofu continues, the tensions between cultural expression and community standards remain palpable. With the largest Taiwanese community in the United States residing in Los Angeles, this dispute underscores the complexities of cultural cuisine in an evolving urban landscape.
The next steps for Golden Leaf are uncertain, but Liao’s determination to bring back stinky tofu reflects a broader struggle for preserving cultural identity in the face of local opposition. As the petition gains traction, it remains to be seen how city officials will respond to Liao’s plea to safeguard his culinary tradition.