**Revelations of a Royal Spy: Justine Picardie’s Insights into Queen Elizabeth’s Fashion Designer**
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In her latest publication, *Fashioning the Crown: A Story of Power, Conflict and Couture*, author Justine Picardie sheds light on the intriguing dual life of esteemed royal dressmaker Hardy Amies, revealing that he served as a spy during World War II. This surprising narrative unfolds through conversations Picardie had with the late Queen Elizabeth, who herself had a long-standing relationship with Amies, and delves into how fashion intersected with royal history during tumultuous times.
Picardie’s encounters with the Queen took a remarkable turn during a lunch at Balmoral in 1982. The author, whose husband is the late Prince Philip’s godson, hesitantly broached the topic of Amies and his secretive past as a wartime operative for the Belgian resistance. To Picardie’s astonishment, the Queen responded with a light-hearted acknowledgment of the “rumours” regarding Amies’ espionage skills, remarking, “Ah, yes, those rumours that he was very good at garrotting Nazis.” Noting the cleverness of Amies’ cover as a couturier, the Queen seamlessly transitioned the conversation, an abrupt shift that left a lasting impression on Picardie.
Reflecting on the exchange, Picardie remarked, “There was something very knowing in that,” expressing her surprise at the Queen’s openness. This brief glimpse into Amies’ life opened a doorway into the rich narrative covered in *Fashioning the Crown*, prompting Picardie to explore the pivotal role of fashion in the security of the British monarchy across decades, including two world wars and a royal abdication.
The book is meticulous in its historical exploration, beginning from the formation of the House of Windsor in 1917 to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth in 1953. Picardie dedicated four years to research, immersing herself in the archives at Windsor Castle and recounting the influence of key figures in the fashion industry, such as Amies and Norman Hartnell, as well as photographer Cecil Beaton. These individuals not only shaped royal image but also operated under the shadows of their personal lives amidst the oppressive societal norms of their time.
Picardie also touches upon the covert lives led by these fashion luminaries, as homosexuality was illegal until the late 20th century. She asserts that those within the royal circle were likely aware of the sexual orientation of figures like Amies, suggesting that the Queen Mother displayed a degree of acceptance toward homosexual men. “I think it’s inconceivable that the Queen would not have known by the time she was an adult,” Picardie speculated, highlighting a level of understanding that prevailed in the royal household.
Hardy Amies is perhaps best known for his tailored daytime outfits that became a signature array for the Queen; his designs adorned her for over four decades and on more than 50 royal tours. His life, however, was rich with adventure prior to his role in fashion. A former soldier, Amies became a bona fide spy for the Special Operations Executive (SOE), a top-secret initiative established under Winston Churchill. Evidence suggests that Amies partook in activities that included silent assassination techniques, hinting at a more thrilling involvement in the war than he publicly acknowledged.
Picardie elaborates on Amies’ wartime accomplishments, noting that following the conflict, he received the Order of the Crown — one of Belgium’s highest honours — for his contributions. His storied life culminated in 1990 when he was knighted just as he concluded his distinguished service to the Queen, demonstrating a legacy that blends creativity with sacrifice.
Picardie’s exploration of Amies serves not only to highlight an intriguing aspect of royal fashion history but also to commemorate the personal stories of those who lived through extraordinary times. The author captures how individuals within this circle, especially those whose lives were shaped by conflict, navigated the complex intersection of personal identity and public obligations.
Through *Fashioning the Crown*, readers are invited to traverse the hidden stories behind royal fashion and the unspoken truths that shaped its narrative. Picardie’s book not only honours the contributions of Hardy Amies but also encourages a broader reflection on the complexities of life at the heart of the monarchy. As the world continues to unravel these stories, it becomes increasingly clear that the fabric of royal history is woven with both glamour and intrigue.